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Tunesisk hækling
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Tunesisk hækling spænder vidt – lige fra det kompakte og stoflige til det lettere og mere luftige udtryk. Denne bog byder på en bred vifte af designs, der indkredser årstiderne i en smuk harmoni af farver, former og mønstre. Mange af designene har fået et legende twist af strikkede og hæklede kanter.

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Bogen indeholder 17 opskrifter med alt fra elegante trøjer, bluser og sommertoppe til mere vinterlige nederdele, sweatre og stortrøjer i størrelserne 36 til 46.

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Sværhedsgraderne varierer, så alle kan være med.

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Kan bl.a. købes hos Turbine forlaget: 


https://turbine.dk/produkt/tunesisk-haekling-til-alle-aarstider/

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Derudover kan den købes i garnforretninger, Arnold Busck, Bog & Idé med flere.

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This book is now in English!

 Tunisian Crochet

 Gorgeous designs to wear

for all seasons​

 

Tunisian crochet spans a wide range – from the compact and textile to the lighter and more airy expression. This book offers a broad variety of designs that encapsulate the seasons in a beautiful harmony of colors, shapes, and patterns. Many of the designs have received a playful twist of knitted and crocheted edges.

 
The book contains 17 patterns ranging from elegant sweaters, blouses, and summer tops to more wintry skirts, sweaters, and oversized sweaters in sizes 36 to 46.

 

The difficulty levels vary, so everyone can participate.

 

You can buy it at​

Search Press, Book Marked, Amazon and other stores. 

Primula

 

FP 1 finish: Yes, it is described how to finish FP 1 – “Work back in Tunisian return st.” BUT breaking the yarn afterwards is missing in the English translation.

 

Return pass is also descriped under ”Moss stitch” on page 34 in the book, Work all RP (return pass) in return stitch (sts) or tunisian return stitch (sts), it is the same.

 

On page 36, line 15 from the bottom, under “N.B:” I can see that there is something that have not been translatet into English, but is in the Danish version.

 

“…over the first 4 FP and RP with 2, 2, 2, 3 sts on each side of the neck on the front while increasing….”

 

“Under “FP 2” it says at the beginning:

FP 2: start 2 sts before the raglan sts at the left side of the front, work across raglan, sleeve, raglan, back, raglan, sleeve, raglan, remember to inc 1 st on both sides of every raglan, and finish 2 sts after the raglan sts at the right side of the front. This is a short row as it does not go all the way around. "Work back in return sts”.

 

FP 3: look at the picture

                (Need to insert a picture)​

 

The ch sts should be behind the work, so that the stitches will lie neatly from the right side of the work when you skip 2 or 3 stitches before you begin the next front row. And the ch sts have nothing to do with neckband later.

 

Hækl 1 tvr i 2. ldl (Danish) = (English) Work 1 Tps in 2. st, 1 Tss in 1. st, in the left side of the front and continue over the raglan, sleeve, raglan, back, raglan, sleeve, raglan to the other side of the front and work the right side of the front as described. You have now 6 sts on each front piece including 2 inc.

 

Work return sts.

 

Next row: continue as descriped.

 

After the short rows you have increased on each side of the raglan 4 times.

 

The increases in the short rows are included in the total inc description for the Front and Back and Sleeves.

 

I had overlooked that the numbers around the increasings in the English version were incorrect compared to what was in the Danish version.

In retrospect, increasings should have been placed on page 36, before “FP 2“.

 

The correct numbers are as written in the Danish version:

 

Page 40, line11 from the top

Front and back: inc 1 st 26(29:30:34:35:39) times on each FP, 1 st 3(2:2:1:1:-) on every 2nd FP on alt (87(91:93:99:103:109) sts not including raglan sts).

 

Sleeves: inc 1 st 18(17:16:16:17:19) times on each FP, 1 st 7(8:9:10:10:10) on every 2nd FP on alt (67(67:69:71:75:81) sts not including raglan sts).

 

Then work round.

 

Page 40, after line 4 under “Body”:

The following needs to be translated from Danish to English:

 

“There are 2 x 89 = 178 (2 x 93 = 186) 2 x 95 = 190 (2 x 101 = 202) 2 x 105 = 210 (2 x 111 = 222) sts, including 1 raglan st on both side of the front and the back.”

 

“There are 178(186:190:202:210:222) sts, including 1 raglan st on both side of the front and the back.

 

Size DK 36/US 4/UK 8:

29 st + 26 inc + 26 inc 3 + 3 = 87 sts + 2 raglan sts = 89 sts x 2 = 178 sts 178 sts + 8 + 8 = 194 sts.

 

Size US10/UK14:

29 st + 34 inc + 34 inc 1 + 1 = 99 sts + 2 raglan sts = 101 sts x 2 = 202 sts + 12 + 12 = 226 sts -2 dec = 224 sts.

This gives the the wanted 224/1.9=118cm.

 

Page 40 2nd column, during

Round 1 FP and RP:

 

Replace (210(222:230:242:250:258) sts) should have been (194(206:214:226:234:242) sts).

 

RP of round 2: dec 1 st at each side. **

 

Replace (208(220:228:240:248:256) sts) should have been (192(204:212:224:232:240) sts).

 

**When 1 st has been decreased on both sides on the body, the round will fit. But since you work in a spiral, it will look as if there are 2 identical stitches next to each other at the beginning of the round. This can be avoided by decreasing 1 more stitch at the end of the first round. But then it is not purely symmetrical**

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